Friday, September 25, 2009

The darkness of the eclipse in Chengdu, China, July 22, 2009, around 9:10 a.m.









Eclipse July 22, 2009

Wednesday, July 22, 2009
9:36:25 AM

I have just experienced a total eclipse of the sun in Chengdu, China. The day dawned grey and muggy. I did not sleep well wondering what this would be like, hoping I would find the right spot to experience and capture the event. I had not eaten right yesterday--mainly nut cookies and coffee, some fruit, soup, and noodles.

8:15 (roughly) I leave my room. I go to the first floor, out the door and up the steps of the soccer field, where some other soccer players were. It is dirty there to make notes, but I see some brief breaks in the clouds. I then made my way up the stairs to the second floor to my classroom.

8:21 Very humid--rained last night--ground is wet with puddles. Sky is uniformly light grey but I see a couple breaks in the clouds with a little blue, even bits of sunlight. I see two people looking out their windows at the sky--one from apartments across the street, one on the top floor of my building, the foreign students dormitory. My observations from the soccer steps--I wrote this in my classroom, Room 2017, with the big window open: very hot, humid, muggy. A sense of foreboding, oppression, anxiety, excitement, something about to happen--what??

8:32 Up elevator to 12th floor. I see a sleepy looking girl grab milk and maybe cereal from the kitchen and return to her room. Very hot. I walk quietly up the steps in the dark that lead to the roof. The door is locked--very dusty there. I try the large window where people hang sheets to dry (no clothes dryers in China)--I cannot open--grey, muggy. I find a smaller window at the end of a hall, open it, and look out. I take several pictures from this location. Grey smog-like clouds envelope the city. I can barely see apartments a half mile away. I see one person looking out an apartment window across the street. The usual crowd of morning commuters goes by--cabs, bikes, bicycles, cars, a small dog running after a motorized cycle. A police car passes by. Horns sound, different pitches and styles, breaks squeal. A man in Tibetan dress walks down an alley and turns in front of the fruit market. Many workers too, dodging traffic. It's always "heads up" here.

8:38 Very muggy--I have window open. Still on 12th floor, looking out. I notice five satellite dishes across from me about a quarter mile away and down several floors. I also see winding fancy steps to a rooftop garden a short distance away on a building maybe two or three stories high.

8:52 I take the elevator down to the 2nd floor to see if anyone has come by. And run into Katy ( grad student with baby) entering the 2nd floor. She says she woke her husband up to see the eclipse and hopes he will. No one else is around the second floor except an early class, not ours. I go back out to the steps up to the stadium entrance and again notice some breaks in the sky visible to my right.
I see my Chinese student Pan coming in on a bike. She puts her bike away and joins me on the steps. I see Eric, my American student--he goes to grab a snack, then to get his camera. Pan and I decide to walk two blocks further to where she saw the sun earlier, at a large intersection. I call Eric to let him know. On the way we run into Vivian, the USAC intern, who is hurrying in to work--she was not aware of the eclipse.

9:04 Now at the large intersection. Cars start to turn on headlights. More and more people are coming outdoors and looking at the sky: shopkeepers, people on the street. Cars begin pulling over, People are watching. A police car stops in front of us.

9:08 It's getting dark. Pan said it reminds her of 8 p.m. in the summer

9:09 Lights are visible in buildings like you see at night. A neon type sign lights up. Street lights turn on. Traffic is stopping more and more.

9:10 People are laughing. People are all over the place, stopping, talking, looking up. Cameras flash. It is like night. There is a collective sigh or moan: "Aaaaiiii!" During the darkness I take several pictures and a video. At some point Eric, my American student, appears. He says he has been taking pictures of the event, the lights, of Pan and me. Pan makes a call before Eric arrives to someone, maybe her mother, to ask if she is witnessing this. Pan also asks me if we will be safe--will there be a huge storm?

9:14 It's getting light again. People begin to move again. Signs are still lit up though. It now seems like 7:00 at night.

9:14 (a few seconds later) Light is returning fast. I see the Chinese flag flying--red color clearly visible. Traffic is moving again.

9:15 It's getting lighter faster and faster.

9:16 Daylight. People are moving again, on their way to work mainly. The city is again in motion.

9:17 Many street lights suddenly go off. I wonder if they are controlled by the amount of light. Police still watch the sky and the event.

9:18 Police drive off. I still see a few vehicles with headlights on, such as taxies.

9:19 Daylight returns more and more. I feel a few big raindrops. The rest of the street lights go off. It begins to rain. People are moving on. I decide to return to the dorm. I open my umbrella as the rain increases. I notice a woman combing here daughter's hair; a kitten is nearby and I want to ask her if the cat reacted to the eclipse but I don’t know how.

The rain picks up as I walk back to the International Students Dorm. I see "Big John" from Minnesota (American USAC student) and ask him where he viewed the eclipse--he says he was walking to school. He lives in an apartment. He says he wished that the street lights had not come on. He adds that some of the USAC students went out of the city to view the eclipse. I say I want to talk to them because I wonder how viewing the eclipse out of town and greater darkness will compare from viewing it in the city of Chengdu.

I return to my room. Now the storm really picks up. I can hear the rain coming down.

I review my photos. The pictures of Pan and I are out of focus, but my video is good and shows that it was night in Chengdu at a little after 9 a.m. on Wednesday, July 22.

10:06 Finally I see some coverage of the eclipse on English TV; this is China's official government station, sort of like the CNN of China but it's heavily government controlled. The video of the event that I see was prerecorded, at 9:07. I am surprised that TV doesn't provide moment to moment coverage of a huge event as would happen in the US. I guess even an eclipse has to go through censors.

10:15 TV coverage from town of Wuhan--picture of the total eclipse, pre-recorded. British accent on Chinese reporter: "This is very exciting. I have never seen this in my life." Constant warnings not to look directly at the sun.

The reporters have western eyes--I think they have had plastic surgery, and they use makeup to make their eyes look more open. I have seen just now both a female and male reporter with rounder eyes, less narrow and straight.

10:19 I have almost finished typing this and now the rain has ended--another grey morning in Chengdu.

Official eclipse factsAn eclipse actually runs over two and a half hours or more. As the sun moves west, each area experiences the eclipse and its stages later in the day--and locations to the east, like India, viewed it sooner than Chengdu
These were the times for the eclipse in Chengdu:
1st contact: 8:02
2nd contact: 9:09
3rd contact: 9:14
4th contact: 10:25

Total darkness = 6 minutes.

In Chengdu, the darkness was predicted for 9:11-9:14. That is essentially what my notes show.
10:31 The eclipse has passed completely for 500 years…

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

I am back--blog was not accessible

Hello,
I got back to the US August 8, and I started teaching Monday, August 24, at BSU again. As I had been warned, my blog was not accessible in China. In addition, the government took down Facebook, YOUTube, and Twitter soon after July 4 due to the riots in western China (far from where I was).
Anyway, I had a wonderful time, and I will, relatively soon, I hope, begin adding posts about my trip. These will be in no particular order, but will touch on some of the things I found most significant.

Friday, June 26, 2009

2 days to go

Well, I am in the craziness of final preparations: lists, notes, packing, checking things off...

I have been told that blogspot (and some other social networking sites) may not work in China. So if you look at my blog and nothing has been added, don't worry. I will take notes and photos and create posts to add when I return in August. I'm extremely excited and ready to take off... : )

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

11 days to go

In less than two weeks I will be in Beijing, and the first thing I'm curious about is the airport, especially the new Terminal 3, which was completed in time for the Olympics last summer. I followed the development of the airport and the other high tech Olympic buildings last summer: the "Bird's Nest" Olympic stadium, the "Aquatics Cube" swim venue, the CCNN TV towers, and the high tech, futuristic "Dragon Terminal" of the airport--far beyond any US airport I can think of.

"Harmonious Airport, Dreams start from here" flashes across the screen when I Google the Beijing Capital International Airport. One source calls the airport "a centerpiece project" of the 2008 Olympics. Shaped like a flying dragon from the air, Terminal 3 covers 501 square miles, contains five floors (two underground), can handle 50 million passengers a year, and was designed for energy efficiency with natural lighting. It was, until the Dubai International Airport opened in November 2008, the largest building in the world.

After the high tech airport, our group will experience the ancient: the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, the Temple of Heaven, a traditional hutong neighborhood. There will probably be hundreds of tourists at these places, but I don't care--because I will actually be there.

Fun facts about Beijing: It takes three hours to drive across Beijing because Beijing is roughly the size of Belgium (LP 113). Beijing was Peking in a past life: Peking Duck Peking…

[http://gizmodo.com/393275/worlds-biggest-airport-opens-in-beijing]
[http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/02/business/worldbusiness/02terminal.html]

Sunday, June 14, 2009

14 days to go

There will be a total solar eclipse visible in China July 22, 2009, 9-9:38 a.m. (Beijing time). I sincerely hope I can see this eclipse. I've been interested in solar eclipses for a while, ever since I read descriptions by writers Virginia Woolf and Annie Dillard.

On June 30, 1927, Woolf recorded a long account of a solar eclipse in her diary. I found this section especially beautiful:
"I thought we were like very old people, in the birth of the world--druids of Stonehenge; ... at the back of us were great blue spaces in the cloud. These were still blue. But now the colour was going out. The clouds were turning pale; a reddish black colour. Down in the valley it was an extraordinary scrumble of red and black; there was the one light burning; all was cloud down there, and very beautiful, so delicately tinted. Nothing could be seen through the cloud. The 24 seconds were passing. Then one looked back again at the blue; and rapidly, very very quickly, all the colours faded; it became darker and darker as at the beginning of a violent storm; and we thought now it is over--this is the shadow; when suddenly the light went out. We had fallen. It was extinct. There was no colour. The earth was dead."

Woolf goes on to describe the return of light and notes that the next eclipse would not be until 1999. Annie Dillard writes about the 1999 eclipse as she viewed it on a mountain in eastern Washington in one of my favorite essays, "Total Eclipse."

Here is a passage I especially like from Dillard:
"I looked at Gary. He was in the film. Everything was lost. He was a platinum print, a dead artist's version of life. I saw on his skull the darkness of night mixed with the colors of day. My mind was going out; my eyes were receding the way galaxies recede to the rim of space. Gary was light-years away, gesturing inside a circle of darkness, down the wrong end of a telescope. He smiled as if he saw me; the stringy crinkles around his mouth moved. The sight of him, familiar and wrong, was something I was remembering from centuries hence, from the other side of death: yes, that is the way he used to look, when we were living. When it was our generation's turn to be alive."

According to scientist Wang Sichao of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, "The total [July 2009] eclipse will last up to six minutes, or the longest one that can be seen in China in almost 500 years from 1814 to 2309" (China Daily, June 14, 2009 [http://www.chinadaily.com.cn//china/2009-06/14/content_8281854.htm]). Tour providers are advertising total solar eclipse tours on that site.

I wonder how early or late in the day the eclipse will be. China, a huge country, is all on one time zone. So what 9 a.m. means in Chengdu is not necessarily that time of day in terms of the sun as we know it. People do not necessarily work 8-5, since in the west it would still be dark for a couple hours in the morning. Weather could also be a factor with smog or thunderstorms. But regardless, I look forward to July 22, and I will record whatever I see.

Fun fact about China: The time in China is the same everywhere in the country, called "Beijing Time," even though China spans five time zones geographically--if I'm reading the map right. So China is longer east to west than the US with our four time zones. (LP 1008-1009)

Friday, June 12, 2009

16 days to go

I spent time yesterday reading about Chengdu in my Lonely Planet guide. This is the city where I will be for five weeks, the majority of my trip. The layout of the city is really not difficult, or at least I've been telling myself that, as I study the city map. I will be at the Southwest University for Nationalities which is near "South Section 4, 1st Ring Road."

Ring a ding roads
There is a square in the center of Chengdu called Tianfu Square. Then three "ring roads" circle the square: First Ring Road, Second Ring Road, and Third Ring Road. Each Ring Road is also named by its location: North First Ring Road, West Second Ring Road, South Third Ring, etc.

This layout of streets strongly motivates me to learn the Mandarin words for first, second, third, north, south, east, west, and road ... as well as street. I've been working on these words with a CD, but without actually being there, number and location words remain abstract--pure memorization. Now I at least have places on a map to tie the words to.

By the way, "road" is "Lu," "one" is "yi," and "ring" must be "huan." First Ring Road is "Yihaun Lu" (pronounced "ee hon loo"). Please, if you know more Chinese than me, email me with the correct pronunciation.

There are major boulevards that run through these rings as well as minor streets. The ring layout of streets with roads cutting through, kind of like a target with a star in the middle, seems logical as a way to lay out a city. But it sure is different from the west, where streets lie straight, cross each other in 90 degree turns, and form grids. Boise streets run fairly straight, but I lived in Utah growing up and whoever drew that map clearly laid out a grid.

In a way the rings of Chengdu, almost as remote as the rings of Saturn as I daydream about the near future, will also have similar "addresses" in the solar system of Chengdu. But not consistent addresses.

Fun fact about China: LP calls Chengdu "a true Asian city" in "its nonchalant disregard of systematic street number and naming"; some places have five sets of numbers on the door from various streets that intersect the particular location (LP 755). So LP suggests finding places more by landmarks than by addresses. And that is a western approach.